Sunday, October 30th Ahh! This is what boating is all about. After eight months on the terra firma, we have provisioned SEA JAMM, checked the engines and have finally cast off our lines and now are headed up St. John's River for a couple of weeks. Just taking our time, dropping anchor or catching another line in one of the few river towns to explore the locals, their history and their food. Food is important to me. I now know the name of every fish camp between Ortega and Sandford and am ready to try them all!
This is REALLY exciting for me. Alan has
spent these last 8 months, changing, fixing and updating every part of our
47-foot boat. You wouldn't understand this unless you can experience
it. The entire floor in the saloon can be removed by hatches. He
descends down there and I don't see him until hours later. Does give
me a chance to explore the many shops of Jacksonville, for I have now done
Christmas shopping for the whole family. Twice. When he is not in
the engine room, he is elsewhere tinkering, rewiring, or whatever it
is that he does. Don't get me wrong. If we had to hire out this
work, we couldn't afford to pay for the diesel it takes to run it.
And, we have now survived the first
hurricane! Thankful that Matthew stayed off shore a bit, his fury died down a bit before hitting Ortega, which is located 3-miles
west of the city center of Jax. Jacksonville, itself is located
about 25 miles west of the Atlantic. This is one reason we chose to
house Sea Jamm in Ortega. The only damage was that the bimini flipped
up and broke the anchor light.
Once again, it's refreshing to be back
on the water listening to the hum of the engines, squinting in the
bright sunlight, and anticipating what's around the bend.
Sunday evening: After only 35 miles
(on river systems and ICW one goes by miles, not knots) we decide to
tie up at Outback Crab Shack on Sixmile Creek, a private owned
restaurant famous for both seafood and steak. We had been here
before and loved the local atmosphere and the company of St.
Augustines. However, after docking on one of the world's longest
floating docks (says that in the Florida Water Guide) we head to the
restaurant to see if its open. They have not answered their phone
for 2 days and we found only a couple of boats tied to its dock when we got there.
What we found was not pretty. Unfortunately it looks like Matthew hadn't
forgotten St John's after all. We found a flooded, empty gutted
building with all its contents setting around the grounds, the part
that wasn't holding water that is. Dismally walking back to SEA JAMM, we
found the source of a dead stench in the air. We have been looking
for an alligator ever since entering Alabama and Florida a year ago.
We found one. It looked like a tree had fallen on it and he was
belly up, grotesque and smelly. Needless to say, we decided on
another plan for the evening.
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| Damage to Outback Crab Shack from Matthew |
We cruised for another 2 and a half
hours up the river. We are headed up the river, but are actually
traveling south toward Orlando, kind of in the center of Florida for
those of you who have a map. We are still in the wide part of St.
Johns. We decide to anchor just north of Palatka. in Carman Cove. We
are only about 45 miles as the crow flies from the Atlantic. No
other boats in sight. We have a lovely view of the sunset and the
partially lighted bridge that links east to west Palatka. Good
night.
We woke up to nothing but white. Fog.
Alan got to use his new fog horn. It's automatic and blows every two
minutes, or for whatever time you set. After about 45-minutes, the
fog cleared in a matter of 30 seconds. No kidding.
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| Fog |
After the fog dissipated, and once again seeing shore, we dinghy to the Palatka,
a small river boat community originally named Pilotaikita, a Seminole
word for “boat crossing.” We lunch at Angel's Dining Car is the
oldest diner in Florida where cheeseburgers and onion rings are a
real treat.
No, I didn't eat all those onion rings!Back on Sea Jamm, we head south from Palatka, we come to the skinny of the river, where you find dense stretches of cypress and palms giving the place the kind of natural character that lures boaters and bird watchers.
We decide to spend the night in Welaka,
now a sleepy hamlet, it was once a bustling steamboat landing that Ulysses S.
Grant visited in the winter. After tying up to the town dock,
Bryant's Landing we munched on shrimp at Shrimp R Us. What a jewel
of a town.
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| Shrimp R Us |
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| Another view of Shrimp R Us |
Heading south we approach Lake George,
only 75 nautical miles south of Jax and only 13 miles south of where
we spent the night. Lake George boast to be the 2nd
largest lake in Florida, 6 miles wide and 11 miles long, average 8
feet deep.
Afterwards, we cruise through the
Florida jungle until we reach Hontoon Island state park for the
night. We enjoy a walk on the trails, where we spot one snake. It
is dead but looks so alive. Anyway, I save Alan from the dead snake.
He would have stepped on it had I not stopped him. We see no
alligators. Dinner on board: Mussels in curry sauce over rice.
Publix mussels, not anything we have caught! Cocktails of cranberry
& lime juice mixed with 2 different rums.
Our night time entertainment was watching AND listening to the limpkins. What is interesting about this water fowl is its vocalization. It has a loud wild wail or grunt. And when you have many together, you have a cacophony of sound used for jungle sound effects in Tarzan. These birds are seen at sun down when they're trying to find their spot in a tree for the night. They all seem to want the same spot. They fight for about ten minutes. Then they wail and grunt for another ten minutes before total silence. We have never seen or heard anything like this.
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| Bascule railroad bridge in the background. Our American Great Loop Cruisers Association burgee in the foreground. The red on the map shows the course (loop) Alan and I will be taking in 2018. |
Off to Sandford. Wednesday-Saturday.
Another sleepy town, only much larger. Has a great walking and park
area that borders the marina. Lots of wonderful restaurants
including our favorites Hollerback's Willow Tree German Cafe, where
we enjoyed authentic schnitzels and spätzle, and the Bison's Smile
where we munched on poutine (French: french fries covered in a
gravy). Actually, we didn't have a bad meal during our stay. Eating
is good in Sanford. But, shopping is nonexistent. However, we found the magic of
the place is that everyone you pass on the street speaks. It is
very friendly small town.
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| The Captain resting on one of the many swinging benches found along the waterfront. |
Saturday morning, November 5th: Our cruise home. We still see NO alligators! I think I spotted one swimming across the water. That's it. Except the dead one we told you about in the beginning.
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| A cormorant spreading it's wings like they enjoy doing. |
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| Cows in the river. |
We make it to Astor, Florida to Morrison Creek where we drop anchor. Dinghy to Black Water Restaurant for a late lunch of seafood. Back on the boat for a relaxing evening and cooler night. And, we have another limpkin experience. What entertainment!
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| SEA JAMM anchored in Morrison's Creek |
Sunday morning: We dinghy to
Buck-N-Cats, a very funky cafe down the oxbow a little ways. (An oxbow is a u-shaped bend in the river that connects back to the main river.) Sometimes you find one that is perfect for anchoring. These spots are off the main channel and full of wildlife and untouched beauty.
An aerial view of an oxbow. No I didn't take this shot. Borrowed from Google.
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Sunday afternoon we head back to Carman
Cove north of Palatka and eat a very late lunch at Corky Bells. This
is the best seafood and atmosphere yet! And, the weather was perfect in the mid 70's.
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| Corky Bells |
Monday afternoon back home in Ortega
Landing.
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| One of our neighbors with his pet Boca. She is 30-yr-old and repeats everything you say including laughter. |
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| SEA JAMM in the center with the aqua green top. |
Back to wait until our next adventure. Key West for the Winter.
