KEY WEST: 500 miles South Bound

I dedicate this excursion to Susan. Please know that we are with you in love and spirit, beside you, fighting this battle of cancer. God is our Great Healer, sustainer. Our prayer is that He holds you close during this turmoil. You are teaching us just how precious life is. You and Tom are teaching us what faith looks like.

January 9^th, Monday. And, so we began our journey traveling only 31 miles from Ortega to Palm Cove Marina, Jacksonville beach area. We planned to stay in a marina because it was cold and we could stay warmer hooked up to shore power. Double bonus was we were finally able to hook up with Don & Brucie Hooper who lives in the area. (We didn't get a picture of you! Pooh!)  We enjoyed eating seafood at Marker 32, one of the favorite local eateries and on the grounds of our marina. Fun to catch up with our friends.

We filled our tanks with over 200 gallons of diesel. Rich, the dock master did his job well. He made us feel welcome, safe, and comfortable. Good tip for him.

Passing St. Augustine

January 10^th. Tuesday. Made up the miles today traveling about 83 miles to the South Town bridge which is at Daytona Beach area. We left at 8 am and dropped anchor at 16:40 (4:40) Dinner on boat of spaghetti & Italian sausage washed down with some cab. Enjoyed full moon.

Sun rise at South Town Bridge

Bald eagle on our way.

January 11^th. Wednesday. Traveled for over 70 miles to Honeymoon Lake where we anchored for the night. Very quiet and dark. Alan and I enjoyed steak on the cockpit facing the setting sun. We were all alone. Enough said.

January 12^th. Thursday. Cruised 61 miles to Ft. Pierce where we docked at the city marina. We enjoyed our 10% discount at the original Tiki Bar only a couple hundred feet inland. It has been 72 hours since we had our feet on the good old terra firma.

Fresh snapper. Yum!

We took on another 100 gallons of fuel. The further south, the more expensive the diesel, the bigger the boats and houses. And. . . more attitude. Looking forward to being in Key West where there's . . . NO attitude.

Friday the 13^th. Only 57.2 miles today to West Palm where we have once again anchored. This time at Cocoanut Grove. It took us a while today because there are many slow or no wake matinee zones.

Our night view in West Palm.  Trump plaza.  

Speaking of sea life, I bet we have seen a couple hundred dolphins on this trip. Many have enjoyed swimming along side of us as we trek south. If I am driving, I abruptly hand the wheel over to Alan so I can take pictures. I usually have it on cruise control anyway because there are so many straight and long passages. You do have to stay in the passage, though, because right out of the channel it may drop to 2 feet. Traveling south you keep the red markers on the right (starboard) and the green on the left (port).

Hello from the fly bridge.

Saturday, January 14^th. We averaged 7 mph all day. “minimum wake zone” or “no wake”. But, we saw the most fabulous “home & garden” show slow cruising through Ft. Lauderdale to Hollywood Beach. Anchored in South Lake, Hollywood.

Sunday. The 15^th. Pausing this morning to pray for Susan. What a week she has had. Transfusion and continued nausea and edema. We pray continuously for her and Tom to have comfort during this anguishing time. That they will experience some peace with all the family gathered in support of their mom and sister and wife.

Cruising through Miami to Biscayne Bay.

There have been lots of low bridges, because there are lots of highways that cross over to the ocean from the mainland. The bascules average about 20-25 feet and they usually open on the hour and half hour or by request. Sea Jamm is 22 feet. Well, our Captain made a judgement that we could fit under one of the bridges considering the tide and signage written on the bridge. Well we fit, minus our anchor light which is the highest part when the antennas are down. That means we cannot anchor tonight without an anchor light. So, we are treating ourselves to dockage and dinner at Black Point Marina in Cutler Bay. Frankly, I could use the break!

One of those low bridges.

Miami from Biscayne Bay

There is a whole process to docking “stern to” (backing) in a slip. We have gotten better at it. But, sometimes it can be frightful depending on the current and winds etc.. Today as we pulled up, our slip was right in front of the restaurant were we had at least 150 spectators. I'm glad we did “good” today. Will be staying for 2 days!

Spectator gallery

Sunday & Monday (MLK holiday) We enjoyed the community of this place. These Spanish speaking friends and family are all gathered along the banks of Cutler's cove enjoying the weather and each other. Mamas and papas pushing baby strollers, kids playing on bikes, scooters, and on all sorts of skate boards, yapping little dogs and strolling big ones, little boom boxes and big ones, fishing, grilling sizzling steaks. Everyone belonged.

Pelicans are my favorite.

Nice to relax a bit. Even rented a car to drive over to West Marine to purchase those necessary items, such as a new anchor light, in order to pander Sea Jamm . . . or her Captain. The Captain's wife treated herself to a new skipper's shirt!

Black Point sunrise, Cutler Bay

17 January, Tuesday: We tried out our new anchor light in an area west of Lignumvita Key for the evening and night. After fighting crab pots, we finally grabbed a mooring ball for a very calm, peaceful and dreamy night under the stars. We were the only one in the pool of sea.

18 January, Wednesday: This was the only spot we actually had to go into the ocean to get to Key West. We entered Hawk Channel which was pretty choppy. One of the things we have always liked about Sea Jamm is that she will cruise in the 20's. We have only been impelled to do that twice. Once when we were in the rivers trying to make it to a fish camp before it closed, and now this time because we were rocking and rolling. We made it in 2 hours!

Looking a lot like Key West.

A welcoming committee of one in our marina slip!!!

I have learned a few things on this journey: On auto pilot, the boat will hunt : that is venture off course a bit to the left (port) and then to the right(starboard) while overall maintaining a straight course. The venturing off course concerned me somewhat until my captain explained that a boat has to hunt to find it's course.  Hmm.  Reminded me of life. 

The other is, I take joy in discovering other boat names. This particular name caught my eye as I once again thought of Tom & Susan. They have had a rough week. They are tired. And their journey is far from over. If you are reading this, take a moment and send a prayer that these two and their family will keep their strong unwavering faith, and that the doctors will discern and administer the best course for her comfort and healing.

This is the end of this particular journey. We have made it the the southern most part of the US, or so some books say. We have arrived to mile marker “0” by highway.

Sunday, October 30^th Ahh! This is what boating is all about. After eight months on the terra firma, we have provisioned SEA JAMM, checked the engines and have finally cast off our lines and now are headed up St. John's River for a couple of weeks. Just taking our time, dropping anchor or catching another line in one of the few river towns to explore the locals, their history and their food. Food is important to me. I now know the name of every fish camp between Ortega and Sandford and am ready to try them all!

This is REALLY exciting for me. Alan has spent these last 8 months, changing, fixing and updating every part of our 47-foot boat. You wouldn't understand this unless you can experience it. The entire floor in the saloon can be removed by hatches. He descends down there and I don't see him until hours later. Does give me a chance to explore the many shops of Jacksonville, for I have now done Christmas shopping for the whole family. Twice. When he is not in the engine room, he is elsewhere tinkering, rewiring, or whatever it is that he does. Don't get me wrong. If we had to hire out this work, we couldn't afford to pay for the diesel it takes to run it.

And, we have now survived the first hurricane! Thankful that Matthew stayed off shore a bit, his fury died down a bit before hitting Ortega, which is located 3-miles west of the city center of Jax. Jacksonville, itself is located about 25 miles west of the Atlantic. This is one reason we chose to house Sea Jamm in Ortega. The only damage was that the bimini flipped up and broke the anchor light.

Once again, it's refreshing to be back on the water listening to the hum of the engines, squinting in the bright sunlight, and anticipating what's around the bend.

Sunday evening: After only 35 miles (on river systems and ICW one goes by miles, not knots) we decide to tie up at Outback Crab Shack on Sixmile Creek, a private owned restaurant famous for both seafood and steak. We had been here before and loved the local atmosphere and the company of St. Augustines. However, after docking on one of the world's longest floating docks (says that in the Florida Water Guide) we head to the restaurant to see if its open. They have not answered their phone for 2 days and we found only a couple of boats tied to its dock when we got there. What we found was not pretty.  Unfortunately it looks like Matthew hadn't forgotten St John's after all. We found a flooded, empty gutted building with all its contents setting around the grounds, the part that wasn't holding water that is. Dismally walking back to SEA JAMM, we found the source of a dead stench in the air. We have been looking for an alligator ever since entering Alabama and Florida a year ago. We found one. It looked like a tree had fallen on it and he was belly up, grotesque and smelly. Needless to say, we decided on another plan for the evening.

Damage to Outback Crab Shack from Matthew

We cruised for another 2 and a half hours up the river. We are headed up the river, but are actually traveling south toward Orlando, kind of in the center of Florida for those of you who have a map. We are still in the wide part of St. Johns. We decide to anchor just north of Palatka. in Carman Cove. We are only about 45 miles as the crow flies from the Atlantic. No other boats in sight. We have a lovely view of the sunset and the partially lighted bridge that links east to west Palatka. Good night.

We woke up to nothing but white. Fog. Alan got to use his new fog horn. It's automatic and blows every two minutes, or for whatever time you set. After about 45-minutes, the fog cleared in a matter of 30 seconds. No kidding.

Fog

After the fog dissipated, and once again seeing shore, we dinghy to the Palatka, a small river boat community originally named Pilotaikita, a Seminole word for “boat crossing.” We lunch at Angel's Dining Car is the oldest diner in Florida where cheeseburgers and onion rings are a real treat.

No, I didn't eat all those onion rings!

Back on Sea Jamm, we head south from Palatka, we come to the skinny of the river, where you find dense stretches of cypress and palms giving the place the kind of natural character that lures boaters and bird watchers.

We decide to spend the night in Welaka, now a sleepy hamlet, it was once a bustling steamboat landing that Ulysses S. Grant visited in the winter. After tying up to the town dock, Bryant's Landing we munched on shrimp at Shrimp R Us. What a jewel of a town.

Shrimp R Us

Another view of Shrimp R Us

Heading south we approach Lake George, only 75 nautical miles south of Jax and only 13 miles south of where we spent the night. Lake George boast to be the 2^nd largest lake in Florida, 6 miles wide and 11 miles long, average 8 feet deep.

Afterwards, we cruise through the Florida jungle until we reach Hontoon Island state park for the night. We enjoy a walk on the trails, where we spot one snake. It is dead but looks so alive. Anyway, I save Alan from the dead snake. He would have stepped on it had I not stopped him. We see no alligators. Dinner on board: Mussels in curry sauce over rice. Publix mussels, not anything we have caught! Cocktails of cranberry & lime juice mixed with 2 different rums.

Our night time entertainment was watching AND listening to the limpkins. What is interesting about this water fowl is its vocalization. It has a loud wild wail or grunt. And when you have many together, you have a cacophony of sound used for jungle sound effects in Tarzan. These birds are seen at sun down when they're trying to find their spot in a tree for the night. They all seem to want the same spot. They fight for about ten minutes. Then they wail and grunt for another ten minutes before total silence. We have never seen or heard anything like this.

Bascule railroad bridge in the background.  Our American Great Loop Cruisers Association burgee in the foreground.  The red on the map shows the course (loop) Alan and I will be taking in 2018.

Off to Sandford. Wednesday-Saturday. Another sleepy town, only much larger. Has a great walking and park area that borders the marina. Lots of wonderful restaurants including our favorites Hollerback's Willow Tree German Cafe, where we enjoyed authentic schnitzels and spätzle, and the Bison's Smile where we munched on poutine (French: french fries covered in a gravy). Actually, we didn't have a bad meal during our stay. Eating is good in Sanford. But, shopping is nonexistent. However, we found the magic of the place is that everyone you pass on the street speaks. It is very friendly small town.

The Captain resting on one of the many swinging benches found along the waterfront.

Saturday morning, November 5th: Our cruise home. We still see NO alligators! I think I spotted one swimming across the water. That's it. Except the dead one we told you about in the beginning.

A cormorant spreading it's wings like they enjoy doing.

Cows in the river.

We make it to Astor, Florida to Morrison Creek where we drop anchor. Dinghy to Black Water Restaurant for a late lunch of seafood. Back on the boat for a relaxing evening and cooler night. And, we have another limpkin experience. What entertainment!

SEA JAMM anchored in Morrison's Creek

Sunday morning: We dinghy to Buck-N-Cats, a very funky cafe down the oxbow a little ways. (An oxbow is a u-shaped bend in the river that connects back to the main river.)  Sometimes you find one that is perfect for anchoring.  These spots are off the main channel and full of wildlife and untouched beauty.

An aerial view of an oxbow.  No I didn't take this shot.  Borrowed from Google.

Sunday afternoon we head back to Carman Cove north of Palatka and eat a very late lunch at Corky Bells. This is the best seafood and atmosphere yet! And, the weather was perfect in the mid 70's.

Corky Bells

Monday afternoon back home in Ortega Landing. 

One of our neighbors with his pet Boca.  She is 30-yr-old and repeats everything you say including laughter.

SEA JAMM in the center with the aqua green top.

Back to wait until our next adventure. Key West for the Winter.